Along with Brazil, another country I love is Lebanon. It lies at a geographical and cultural crossroads — technically in Asia, but a stone’s throw away from Africa and Europe. This made the Phoenicians into the greatest traders of their time over 3,000 years ago, and it’s amazing that the talent for commerce and appreciation for great food has survived in one of the most disputed regions of the world.
One minute you’re in a bar underneath a parking garage, and the next, a swanky rooftop nightclub...
But by no means have the Lebanese had it easy. The civil war that destroyed the “Paris of the East,” as Beirut was known back then, has left a deep scar that not even the most careful reconstruction can erase. And Lebanon is flanked by two countries that remain arch-enemies, Syria and Israel. There is an underlying edginess to Lebanon and Beirut that makes people embrace life with more passion than in most places I know. The time to visit is now.
Beirut might just be the best party city in the world (aside from maybe Jakarta, but that’s a story for another time). But unlike some other cities that are known for their nightlife, Beirut is inclusive. There’s something reminiscent of Brazil, in fact, in the way people welcome you and treat you like distant family. And I love that the Lebanese are so multilingual. They can’t finish a sentence without switching to another language; most people know and average of three. In Beirut, the party starts at midnight and doesn’t stop until sunrise, and then you get up and do it all over again. Whatever you do at night, take your hangover for a stroll on La Corniche, an open air melting pot by the Mediterranean.
B-018; Photograph courtesy of Bernard Khoury/DW5
There is an underlying edginess to Lebanon and Beirut that makes people embrace life with more passion than in most places I know…
From the sound of it you might think a few nights in Beirut would blur together, but it’s amazing how many unique experiences you can have in one city. One minute you’re in a bar underneath a parking garage (B-018), and the next, a swanky rooftop nightclub (Skybar). No matter the venue, people smile. And this is the key to what I love about the Lebanese people. They live in the moment with an open heart and mind, maybe because they know not to take the future for granted.
Skybar; Photography courtesy of Skybar
The time to visit is now…
Beirut is also quite interesting architecturally. The central part of the city was rebuilt after the war, and they’ve approached the reconstruction with a lot of deference for their multicultural heritage. Luxury shops are back and Beirut is reclaiming the top end of the clientele it lost to Dubai decades ago. When I was last there I stayed at Le Gray, and while it was built from the ground up in a quite modern style, it fits extraordinarily well and offers great views from its central location.
There’s a lot to see beyond Beirut as well. You’ve got skiing, vineyards, monumental Roman ruins and beaches all within two hour drive — though I would recommend hiring a driver, since local drivers operate at a level of intensity you may not be prepared to match.
It’s a small paradise, and it’d be your loss not to see it for yourself.
Words By;
Laurent Vernhes